On the summit of Iliniza Sur, looking over at the impressive south face of Iliniza Norte Photo by Jason Spellberg
Guides
Ecuadorian guides are very strong and accomplished mountaineers. But, for the most part, they lack the extensive training and certification of their European or North American counterparts. What you pay for when you hire a guide in Ecuador is assistance with logistics and route-finding. Arranging round-trip transportation to the peaks can be challenging, and some climbers (especially those lacking Spanish language skills and/or traveling alone) may find it easier and even cheaper to hire a guide, since he provides all services for one fee.
Route-finding on most Ecuadorian peaks is challenging. High volcanoes in the tropics are so glaciated and receive so much temperature variation, snow and sun that the routes to the top are constantly changing. In Ecuador, there is no question that hiring a guide greatly improves your odds of summiting. Guides from Europe and the U.S. regularly sub-contract Ecuadorian guides to lead them and their parties up the proper route. But if you do hire a guide, ask if he has recently climbed the route you want to do; this is particularly important on a peak like Antisana. Be self-sufficient on the climb: bring your own prussik loops, ice screws, and snow stakes, and know how to set up a proper snow anchor and rescue system—don't rely on the guide to do this for you.
Some Ecuadorian guides have been trained and certified in Europe or the U.S., but this is the exception, not the rule. English-speaking Ecuadorian guides are also rare, but they do exist. To find a guide, you can either go to one of the numerous adventure travel agencies in Quito (Safari Adventures is probably the most helpful) or you can contact a guide directly, if you have his phone number or email address. It is cheaper to do the latter (prices in the section above assume contracting through an agency), and, since many guides have their own websites, it may be worthwhile to search the Internet for a guide directly. Unless you have an unusually large party, or absolutely require an English-speaking and/or IMGA-certified guide, avoid making reservations through agencies in Europe or the U.S.—you'll pay more for the same service. Even during the busiest climbing season of November through January, there are more than enough guides to meet demand, so it probably isn't necessary to find one before arriving in Quito anyway.
"The Cayambe, Chimbo, and Coto huts also have big wood-burning furnaces, flush toilets, and generators for electric lighting..."
Huts
Mountain huts in Ecuador are surprisingly plush. All huts mentioned in this article feature fully-stocked kitchens (propane stoves, eating utensils, plates, cookware and dish soap are all provided), running water, reasonably comfortable mattresses, and caretakers to watch over your stuff while you climb. The Cayambe, Chimbo, and Coto huts also have big wood-burning furnaces, flush toilets, and generators for electric lighting. Huts are $5 per night on Iliniza, $10 on Chimbo, and $15 on Cayambe and Coto. These fees pay for the high quality hut maintenance and support staff.
Weather
The dominant winds in Ecuador blow from east to west, opposite that in the temperate regions. Moisture collects from the Amazon basin, and is then deposited over the Andes to the west. Thus, the eastern chain of the Andes, the Cordillera Oriental, typically gets more snow and moisture than the western Cordillera Occidental. In the tropics, there are two dominant seasons: dry and wet. Ecuador's high peaks can be climbed at any time of year, but conditions on the volcanoes are usually most ideal during the dry seasons of November to January and June to August. During these months, storms are usually less intense and less frequent. Many dry season storms are minor and do not prevent the high volcanoes from being climbed, since they typically don't dump enough snow to create avalanche hazards. But these are only generalizations, and nothing concerning weather can ever be guaranteed
Climbing Gear
Ecuador has a diverse offering of routes. Appropriate gear depends greatly on the choice of route and the conditions, as well as on the experience and technical ability of each climber in the party. For most routes crampons, rope, crevasse rescue gear and wands are absolutely essential. Ice tools and protection and helmets are highly recommended for most routes as well.
Guidebooks & Maps
The most popular book is Ecuador: A Climbing Guide by Yossi Brain. It is available from any online bookseller, but many of the route descriptions are outdated and incomplete. A better choice is Climbing and Hiking in Ecuador by Rob Rachowiecki, which provides more comprehensive route descriptions and better photos. Locating this book can be difficult; you might be able to find a used copy from Amazon or Barnes & Noble. Otherwise, it is available at some bookstores in Quito. Another option for beta is the South American Explorer's club, in the Sucre district of Quito. The staff there is friendly and will help you find information on any of the major peaks, but they won't let you photocopy their guidebooks, and they'll definitely press you into buying a club membership.
The only topo maps available are printed by the Instituto Geográphico Militar, also in Quito. You have to go in person to buy maps—take a taxi and bring a passport or other government-issued photo ID for entrance. Topo maps are in color and are of reasonably good quality; each one costs $1.80. The 1:50,000 scale maps provide the best detail, with 40-meter contour lines. They are useful for showing major geological features, such as ridges, craters, lakes, and glaciers (though many of the glacier boundaries are inaccurate). Beware that the IGM is closed on weekends and holidays—during Christmas and New Year's, they'll likely stay closed for a month.
Après-Climb
After climbing a cold volcano, visits to the hot springs at Baños and/or Papallacta are a must. Baños is located two hours to the northeast of Riobamba at about 6,200 feet in a luscious, tropical box canyon. It is a vibrant, commercial town, with at least three major hot springs attractions. There are great restaurants here, as well as many interesting activities to enjoy, such as waterfall visits, rafting, and horseback riding. Papallacta, by contrast, is a quieter, less commercialized collection of resort hotels situated high in the Andes about 90 minutes east of Quito and 15 km north of Antisana at 10,300 feet. The Termas de Papallacta hacienda, just outside of town, is most recommended, since it has probably a dozen charming, well-maintained hot springs right on the premises (you literally walk outside your room and jump into a spring!), as well as nice rooms and a good restaurant. It is located perhaps 90 minutes from Quito and costs about $80 per night for a triple.
Contact Information
»Safari Adventures, Quito: 552 505 226 381, admin@safari.com.ec (ask for Jean or Patty). This adventure company can outfit you for any trekking, mountaineering, or climbing trip to any spot in Ecuador, either directly or indirectly.
»Mirador Cuicachi hotel and restaurant at Lago Cuicachi, Cotacachi National Park: contact Safari Adventures to get in touch with Ernesto, the proprietor.
»Hacienda Guachala, Cayambe village: www.haciendaguachala.com (you can get info and make reservations on their website). This will probably be the highlight of your après-climbing recovery.
