Pages »1   2   3   4    5

The Cayambe Trench Photo by Jason Spellberg

From the upper hut at 16,200 feet, find the obvious trail network, which leads up to the rock cliff that supports the lower glacier. The short step required to attain the glacier from the rock is notoriously gnarly, but an easy class 3 move is all that's currently needed to surmount it. Once above the cliff, traverse to the right, following crampon tracks and an occasional flag, until you arrive at a thick snow embankment, where most people rope up (don't traverse too far to the right, as the slopes are covered with verglas). Immediately beyond the embankment, the route steepens considerably.

The trick to this climb is quickly and efficiently gaining the northwest ridge from the lower glacier. It's a convoluted route, but you can probably follow footprints and wands to arrive at a broad shoulder just above a big rock (called El Castillo) at about 18,000 feet. There are two general routes that will get you to the shoulder; one ascends to the right of a massive rock protrusion embedded in the glacier, the other goes to the left. Don't be afraid to let your route-finding senses guide you, and be wary of following others (especially large, slow parties), unless you're sure they know where they're going. From the shoulder, the route is wanded about every 300 vertical feet, so there is little chance of getting lost.

The northwest ridge varies drastically in steepness, ranging from as little as 30 degrees to as much as 50. It probably averages 38 degrees or so, somewhat steeper, but far less crevassed, than Cayambe's southwest route. There are four false summits on the upper part of the ridge. Each is a shelf of ice above a steep section. The final steep section deposits you on the edge of a featureless pancake—from here it is a 150-yard jaunt over windswept snow to the almost unnoticeable hump of Veintimilla. This section is unprotected from the elements, so take care not to get blown off the mountain. From Veintimilla, the Whymper summit is over a half-mile away, but the net elevation gain is less than 200 feet. If you have time and if you still feel eager, go for it. Strong parties can make it in 30 minutes.

In January 2003, there was a nasty 50-foot deep, four-foot wide crevasse encircling the entire summit, and it was guarded on both sides by three-foot high drifts of very unstable snow. There were no good bridges across the crevasse, and there was no way to jump it, since the cruddy snow offered no firm purchase. At the time, the only sure way across this gap was with a ladder. Thankfully, this crevasse is located only 20 vertical and 80 horizontal feet away from Whymper's highest point, so even if you don't get across, you are so close to the summit that you can claim victory in your climbing memoirs anyway. Most people will be satisfied with this accomplishment; only about a fifth of all climbers who summit Veintimilla even bother trying for Whymper.

Logistical Details

Costs
Ecuador is not a particularly cheap country. If you hire a climbing or trekking guide, expect to pay $150 to $250 per day, which includes meals, transportation, and any equipment rental. Park fees are usually $10 per person—Iliniza, Cotacachi, Cayambe, Chimbo, and Coto are all in national parks. Park and hut fees are only payable in cash (Ecuador is currently using the U.S. dollar as its national currency). If you hire a guide, park and hut fees are usually included in the price, but not always. If you climb without a guide, transportation will cost you. For travel between cities, hiring private trucks is almost always cheaper than taxis, and they are just as reliable. Truck transport typically costs around $20 per hour, taxis as much as $40. In addition, trucks always have plenty of room for you and your stuff, whereas taxis can seldom fit three people and their gear comfortably. Often, you will get a pick-up truck, requiring people and/or gear to ride in the payload, but that's more fun anyway. To find private trucks, ask hotel operators, resteraunteurs, travel agencies, hut staff and even guides to refer you to their friends. Obviously, this is much easier if you have good command of Spanish.

Haciendas
Ecuador is full of quiet, clean, and charming country haciendas. Some are near the big peaks and make for great places to rest before and/or after climbing. Most recommended is the Hacienda Guachala outside of the Cayambe village ($50 per night for a triple room). Originally built in the 16th century as a monastery, it now offers enormous rooms, each with a wood-burning fireplace and big, comfortable beds. It has a pool and a great restaurant, and the friendly staff provides transport to and from Cayambe for $30 each way. There are also several haciendas outside of Riobamba, in close proximity to Chimbo. The Hacienda Andaluza, another old monastery, has been more recently converted than Guachala, and is somewhat pricier ($75 for a smaller, but more modern, triple). At 10,800 feet, the Andaluza is ideal for acclimatizing, but the restaurant isn't as good as Guachala's, and the staff isn't as helpful. Just outside the entrance to Cotopaxi Natonal Park at 10,300 feet is the Hacienda Cuello de Luna, with cozy rooms and a quality restaurant, again $50 for a triple. All of these places are happy to watch your gear while you climb, and can usually arrange your pick-up from the mountain, as well.

While it can't be defined as a hacienda, Mirador Cuicachi, at the base of Cotacachi, boasts fabulous views of the peak and lake. It has a good restaurant, as well as reasonable but simple lodging, and makes an ideal place to spend the night before climbing the volcano. For an extra fee ($60 USD), the hotel also provides transportation to and from the radio towers at 13,200 feet, from where all three of Cotacachi's mountaineering routes begin. The Cotacachi National Park Visitors' Center is also worth checking out; it is within walking distance of the hotel.