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Everest: Both Sides Now
With Little Fanfare, Ellen Miller Summits From Both Sides in Same Year
September 2002
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Ellen Miller on Everest

Miller on Everest Summit

Now that she has climbed the mountain from both sides, Miller is committed to writing a book about the women who have climbed the mountain.

"Only 75 women have reached the summit of Everest," Miller said. "I became the 64th in 2001, and only the fourth woman in history to have climbed it via both routes. For some, achieving the summit is the end of their interest in Everest, but for me, it was only the beginning. I am fascinated with Everest and the stories of other women who have climbed it. That's why I am writing a book about women climbers on Everest."

According the Miller, her book will present to the reader the factual history and truthful accounts of the women who have climbed Everest. For here, the dramatic stories of these courageous women deserve to be told.

"I'm a little surprised that what I accomplished hasn't been widely reported..."
"The stories of women on Everest are as varied as the women themselves," Miller explained. "There is triumph: in 1995, Alison Hargreave's unsupported ascent without supplemental oxygen. There is tragedy: in 1998, why did climbers on the Northeast Ridge choose to pass by Francis Arsentiev as she struggled to stay alive? There is controversy: in 1988, Lydia Bradey's ascent without supplemental oxygen —did she really reach the summit? There is eccentricity: in 2001, Claire Bernier Roche flew from Mt. Everest's summit in a tandem paraglider with her husband. There is competition: in 1988, Stacy Allison and Peggy Luce raced to place the US flag on the summit. There is technical virtuosity: Sharon Wood is the only woman to ever ascend the West Ridge. There is drive: Lakpa Sherpa said: 'I want to summit the mountain 10 times before I'm married.'"

So Ellen Miller's next big effort is not focused on a mountain, but on her book about the women who have reached the summit of the highest mountain on earth. For now, she still enjoys the success she had last year. As for publicity?

"I'm a little surprised that what I accomplished hasn't been widely reported," Miller said. "But that's okay. I had beautiful, fun, rewarding experiences climbing Everest, and not a whole lot of drama. I tend to be serious and focused when I get to the mountain, and that's one reason I didn't seek publicity before my climbs. In fact, I barely told anyone I was going back.

"It was a little frustrating when I got home to Denver International Airport," she recalled. "I was wearing my little Everest vest, and people would walk up to me and say, 'Hey, were you on the women's team?' By the time the sixth or seventh person asked me that, I felt like saying, 'No, I got to the top — for the second time!'"

Now that she has the rare accomplishment of climbing Everest from both sides in a single year, Miller says that the only endeavor that could lure her back to the mountain would be to attempt a traverse, climb up one side, and climb down the other. But for now, Miller is turning her attention to the book project.

"I think I need to work on the book project, like I climbed the mountain: keep my head down and stay focused on the job at hand. The one thing that spurs me on is that Everest women are really excited about the project, that they will have a place to tell their stories. I feel like it's becoming a group effort and that to me is the greatest honor."

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Peter Potterfield, MountainZone.com Staff