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Everest: Both Sides Now
With Little Fanfare, Ellen Miller Summits From Both Sides in Same Year
September 2002
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Ellen Miller on Everest

Ladder Crossing

Hers was perhaps the single accomplishment of truly impressive scope last May, but it was virtually lost in the large-scale media attention focused on other women climbers on Mount Everest. Miller's second ascent of Mount Everest within 12 months, by different routes, is a landmark for an American woman climber. She climbed to the summit via the South Col route on May 16, 2002, for her second trip to the summit, exactly 352 days after she first climbed Mount Everest on May 23, 2001, via the Northeast Ridge, from Tibet. That gives Miller the rare distinction of having successfully climbed two routes on Everest in one year.

"There are four of us women that have climbed Mount Everest via both the north and south sides," Miller said. "Two are Sherpanis: Lapka and Pemba Doma, one is a South African, Cathy O'Dowd, and now there's myself. But nobody else did it within one year."

In May, 2002, Miller climbed with lead guide Bill Crouse, who was working for New Zealand-based Adventure Consultants. With them on summit day were guide Dave Hiddleston, Haraldur Orn Olafsson and Sherpa climbers Ang Dorje (his eighth summit) and Pasang Tenzing (his second summit) and Lakpa Dorje.

"climbing with somebody as focused as Ellen made our success even more enjoyable..."
"Ellen was a joy to climb with," said Crouse, who has been to the top of Everest twice. "There were fewer teams on the mountain last May than in previous seasons, but the route on the mountain was pretty much on par with other years. The season was a bit compressed, with only two major summit windows, and our team was successful climbing during the first weather window. Even though we hit a record for people reaching the summit from the Southeast ridge in one day, there was no drama — everyone climbed well and patiently.

"The descent didn't have delays, as the teams really didn't get concentrated at any point on the route. We had a brilliant, clear night of shooting stars, a peaceful sunrise showing the curve of the earth, and warmth through the day. It was a summit day to be remembered for sure. And climbing with somebody as focused as Ellen made our success even more enjoyable."

Miller, true to her character, left little to chance on her last Everest attempt: She ran near her home in Vail every day, practiced crossing ladders set up between cars in the parking lot, and frequently climbed short ice pitches to prepare for the Hillary Step. Miller said she knew her attempt could still be stopped by weather or snow conditions. But she was adamant that if there were to be a failure, it would not be her own.

Continued on PAGE 3 »

Peter Potterfield, MountainZone.com Staff