The South Summit Photo courtesy of Mt. Link

Dispatch 14 - May 7, 2004 by Jeff Justman

There is one question every high altitude climber asks himself or herself during a major expedition, "What the HELL am I doing here?" Like Bend, Oregon fly-fishing or a Wisconsin whitetail deer hunt, patience is the key in climbing 8000-meter peaks. Here we are, again, at Everest base camp patiently waiting for a weather window to make our way up to the South Col for a summit attempt. Now I know you're asking, "JJ, you've been on Everest for 35 days now and you have only spent 8 or so of those days actually climbing. What do you do with all that down time?" Well, here are the Top 10 things mountaineers (well, at least speaking for myself) do with their down time.

10. Play chess with as many people who have no idea how to play chess.

09. Wash my socks.

08. On second thought, Burn my socks.

07. Raid the Greek's kitchen tent for as much olive oil and olives.

06. Raid the Irish's kitchen tent for as much Guinness and Whiskey.

05. Join the now 23 member Khumbu Coughing Choir and perform, "I Left My Lungs in San Francisco" for visiting Trekkers.

04. Convince filmmaker David Breshears I'd be the perfect leading role in the "in the works" Hollywood film about the 1996 Everest tragedy.

03. Find the All Women Swedish Everest Team and play strip poker.

02. Since there are NO All Women Everest Teams period, resort to playing strip solitaire!

01. Deeply visualize pillow as Salma Hayek to stay warm on cold base camp nights!

Dispatch 15 - May 9, 2004 Happy Mom's Day by Jeff Justman

Happy Mom's Day! I am going to keep this short...We are heading up for our summit attempt. Talk to you in a week or so...

Dispatch 16 - May 12, 2004 Ð We are on our way UP! by Jeff Justman

Prior to departure for Camp 2, I received an email from JJ asking if Selma had called yet. You know since their departure every time I pick up the phone I think it might be her on the other end. You never know...

Summit! Photo courtesy of Mt. Link

JJ left a message last night (Tues PM for us; Wed AM for them). The whole crew is at Camp 2 at 21,400 feet. Craig and JJ will make their way up to Camp 3 tomorrow (Thursday) to 23, 500 feet while the Sherpa crew rests at Camp 2 for a day.

On Friday, Craig and JJ will go from Camp 3 to Camp 4, the South Col. The Sherpa Crew will climb from Camp 2 to the South Col on this day as well. Then the fun begins...

Everyone is feeling great!

Dispatch 17 - May 14, 2004 by Jeff Justman

The weather is blowing hard up high however the forecast is looking good for the 15th & 16th. There are a lot of teams up there. A lot of people are planning on going on the 15th so they will see how it plays out.

Keep your fingers crossed, say your prayers and hope for a safe and successful climb!

If all goes as planned they will call once they return to Camp 2 on Sunday, May 16th.

Dispatch 18 - May 17, 2004 SUMMIT! by Jeff Justman

Our summit day was perfect, no wind, nothing. However, my socks were a bit damp. I thought I was getting blisters on my big toes, later realizing my feet were a bit cold. I have minor frostbite on both big toes, not bad, should be fine. Also, my first time using O's sucked. My oxygen mask froze up. I climbed from the Balcony to the South Summit using no oxygen. I literally became scared for my life. I told Lhawang something is really wrong. Lhakpa pulled out an extra mask and it was day and night! I climbed the final section up the Hillary Step in great style. It took us 9 hours to get up, which was at 6:30 in the morning and it took me 6 painfully slow hours to get back down. Our team, as you know, consist of the best Sherpa in the world and Lhawang is an excellent leader without this team the trip would not have been a success!

Mountain Link Team who made the Summit: Jeff Justman, Lhawang Dhondup, Lhakpa Nehru, Craig Van Hoy (Go Trek Expeditions), brothers Dawa and Tendi Sherpa.

Thanks for all of the wonderful support!