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Mountain-Link Everest 2004 Dispatches 1 through 5 March 23rd - April 6, 2004
Dispatch 1 - March 23, 2004 by Jeff Justman Here we are in Kathmandu once again. The entire team climbing and trekking made it in today. As usual we will be enjoying a few days in the big city. Lhawang and I are making last minute preparations, buying food, checking gear, etc. We are also making sure all our communication gear is in order. This afternoon I made sure our satellite phone is working by calling my sister Jodi in Wisconsin. Unfortunately I forgot that it was midnight back in the States. But my sister was a pretty good sport about it. Tonight the team will enjoy another great dinner, this time at the infamous Fire and Ice, well known for their pizza. Don't tell the team but I already went there. The next time you hear from us I'd like to introduce the team. Right now one of our team members is checking in with their parole officer so once we get the go ahead, we'll let you know who we are. Keep Climbin'... Dispatch 2 - March 24, 2003 by Kate Trueheart Day 1: From Kathmandu to Lukla to Phakding We arrived at the Kathmandu airport with a pile of bags almost as big as the bus we rode in on. Besides some delayed luggage, our arrival in Lukla (2800m) and the beginning of our time in the Khumbu couldn't have been better. Clear skies gave us a smooth flight and our first views of the Himalaya, at least for those who could bare to look from our rattling prop plane.
We had our first road food in Lukla, a great lunch of hot kool-aide, sardines, French fries and as many as pb and j sandwiches as we could eat. Along with the standard accoutrements to our table also came some local flavor; Druk Green Chili sauce and an unknown, pungent, white, creamy...uh...cheese, presumably, that our food tester, Jumpin' Joe Hughes found quite tasty. And six hours after eating, the outcome was still favorable. With full bellies, we finally embarked on why we all came to Nepal, to walk, climb, be in the mountains. The walk from Lukla to Phakding (pronounced fahk-ding), follows the Dhudkosi (Milk River) through the lower Khumbu. At only 2 1/2 hours, it is short and sweet. Loads of tea houses, dzo (a yak/cow hybrid) and porters carrying enormous, I mean inconceivable, amounts of stuff, are all along the way. We passed 2 Gompas, small Buddhist temples, with prayer wheels, flags, stuppas and beautiful stones carved and whitewashed with prayers. At 2800M, we're not exactly in the high country. Even this low, we've had a few spectacular views of steep, dramatic, craggy peaks. The most memorable was just before we crossed the Dhudkosi. Kusomgangri, a 6000+ meter peek with steep faces and hanging glaciers. After a wobbly suspension bridge crossing, we arrived at the Phakding Star Lodge and are looking forward, with a little trepidation, to our 5 hour/3000M climb to Namche tomorrow. Dispatch 3 - March 26, 2004 by Richie Gardner We've been resting in Namche Bazaar (about 11,500) for a day and a half now and it feels good. The walk from Phakding to Namche was awesome. The first half of the trail follows the Dhud Kosi River and crosses it a handful of times. Along the way we met some guys who gave us some pointers about digital photography. Soon after entering the Sagarmatha National Park the trail serves up some of the first real dose of elevation gain and thinner air. So far everyone in the crew is feeling good and we are taking all of the steps necessary to stay acclimatized. We are going to stay one more day in Namche Bazaar and we'll be able to hit the Saturday market here in town. Apparently it is a big event where local Sherpa from all around the Kumbu come to trade and buy for what they need. It's getting late now so I'll end it short. We'll write more soon.
Continued Dispatch 3 by Jeff Justman We'd like to begin introducing our team. First, we'd like to share with you the backbone of our expedition, our Sherpa team. Now as you may know, climbing Sherpas help expeditions by carrying loads high on the mountain and establishing a safe climbing route. Quite a few expeditions choose not to utilize the help of Sherpas to climb the high peaks in the Himalayas. However, I cannot imagine not climbing without their help. For one, over the years, our crew of Sherpas have become close personal friends of ours. As a matter of fact, to us they are Mountain Link Guides. Lhawang Dhondup who heads up our crew guides in South America for Mountain Link. So with that said, we'd like to introduce one of the strongest Sherpas in the world. You may think that's arrogant to say but come on over here and see for yourself. These guys have led the show on Everest for years, which include our friend, Tendee Sherpa. Tendee Sherpa Tendee Sherpa is one of our strong team members whose role is to help carry loads and fix the route on the upper mountain. Tendee Sherpa and Dawa Sherpa (another member of our climbing Sherpa team) are brothers. Their brother Babu Chiri Sherpa set two world records on Mount Everest. One for setting the speed record and the second for spending the night on the summit of Mount Everest! Tendee Sherpa is 36 years old and has a family including 2 sons and 1 daughter. They live in Solu Khumbu district in the village Tagsindu. When he is not helping expeditions succeed he is an agricultural farmer. Tendee Sherpa's resume includes:
Below is our team roster:
Leaders:
Sherpa Team:
Climbers:
Basecamp Boss:
Trekkers:
Dispatch 4 - April 1, 2004 by Jeff Justman Restless was definitely the word for the past two days as our team relaxed in the village of Namche Bazar. It definitely is a great place to hang out and acclimatize. At 11,500 feet, the buildings of Namche hang onto the steep hillside. If you are in need of some last minute gear or to my surprise a cappuccino, Namche is the place. Saturdays in the village are a unique day where people come from miles around with goods to sell the locals. Products range from tennis shoes to fat flanks of buffalo ripening in the mid-day sun. It took me awhile later that night to figure out that the great tasting meat we were feasting on came fresh (sort of) from the market. Today we left the cappuccino comfort of Namche Bazar and trekked a few hours to Tengboche. The village, which sits at 3860 meters, is well known for its beautiful Tengboche Monastery. It was amusing to catch a group of young Buddhist Monks playing soccer underneath the Himalayas. We will spend the night here and then depart tomorrow for Pangboche to further acclimatize and get closer to Everest Base camp. Slowly but surely... Dispatch 5, April 6, 2004 by Jeff Justman Well, it has been awhile since we have touched based with you. But you'll have to forgive us seeing that a week ago every team member was trying to win the 2004 Mountain Link Projectile Vomiting Championship. This year the contest was held in the village of Pangboche. Joe Hughes was clearly the winner with the combination of Nepali hot dogs, greasy French fries and orange tang flying to a distance of 8 feet 3 inches. Richie Gardner came in last with a little dribble running down his chin and ruining his Mountain Hardwear wind shirt.
We are still reminded that we are out in the mountains. Our communications are giving us a headache and we are continually working on fixing all the kinks. It is nice though because it gives us something to do. We will be hanging here until the 8th when we have our ceremonial Puja. Then, the team will venture above B.C. through the icefall, which is rumored to be in great condition. As a great mountaineer taught me, never trust anything until you check it out yourself. As is evident by the rumor that Everest had a ton of snow this year. I'm still trying to figure out where all the snow is?
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