Money: The New Zealand dollar is a little over half the value of a U.S. dollar, so if the prices seem high at first, just divide by two. The country is not expensive, but it's not really an outrageous bargain either-expect to pay $200-$300 (NZ) for a decent accommodation, $30 or $40 (NZ) for a nice meal of lamb or seafood, and $4 to $5 for a good beer. Divide by half and you'll see it's not bad.

Getting There: Los Angeles is the U.S. gateway to New Zealand, and several airlines make the journey from there to Auckland. Air New Zealand makes the most sense, as the airline knows the country, can help with trip planning, and is a good way to get in a Kiwi frame of mind on the long ride down. The domestic flights I needed to make in New Zealand were often to obscure places where only Air New Zealand flew, so it was much easier to stay with one airline. The flight from LA to Auckland is about 12 hours, a long haul, but no more so than Kathmandu or Patagonia. For serious backcountry types who work hard to sample the best of wilderness, it's no big deal. Flying around domestically is a snap; arrive 30 minutes before a scheduled flight and you're fine, it's much easier than what US travelers are accustomed to.

Trip Planning: New Zealand, being a wired and modern western country, is up to speed on all fronts. Planning for a hiking trip is made effortless by the help of numerous websites operated both by the government Department of Conservation (loosely comparable to the U.S. National Park Service), the country's tourism department or independent operators. The best places to start, for a comprehensive overview, are probably www.purenz.com, and www.travelplanner.co.nz, and for hikers, www.doc.govt.nz/Explore.