"Old is never old," Hanna told MountainZone.com from his home in Chicago.
"But when it comes to climbing Everest, old is definitely old. Forty-five
days of climbing from Base Camp through Camp IV leaves the body battered,
bruised and aching. And I went from 140 to 125 pounds in weight.
"So on May
25, my attempt to climb the last 2,000 feet of Everest was a lasting lesson
that legs at age 72 are not like those at 20, or even 50. Having been sick
about a month before the summit attempt, I was just unable to muster the
final energy to push my legsparticularly my kneesup that mountain.".
"But I will never regret for a moment having tried for the fourth time to
reach the summit. My love for the high, lonely places in far distant lands
was intensified by my last and final attempt to climb that mountain. God was
with me, and brought me safely home. But that's the final chapter. When I
got home I admitted to my wife and children and associates at Mid-North
Financial Services that that's enough.
"And while there was a definite feeling of disappointment turning back at
27,000 feet," Hanna concluded, "I was again humbled by the dedication and
professionalism of Vern Tejas of Alpine Ascents, Bryce Brown, our climbing
doctor, and the Sherpas whose support made my safe descent possible. The
climb was a physical, mental and emotional strain, but it renewed my
strength of character as it was a personally rewarding effort. Having again tried
and returned safely leaves me a stronger person."
The rest of the summit team, including eight Westerners and nine Sherpa, continued
up from the South Col toward the Southeast Ridge.
"We were lucky to have good, clear weather, with no wind," Prittie said. "We
had to work hard though, as there was very strenuous trailbreaking, thigh-deep snow. Our team was glad to see Pete Athans, Peter Hillary and Brent
Bishop of the National Geographic team move up and take a turn at trailbreaking."
"I was a little concerned when we approached the South Summit," Prittie
continued. "The wind picked up a bit, enough for a substantial cloud plume
off the summit. And clouds filled the valleys below and it looked like they
might creep up. I was concerned our weather window might be closing. But
everything just stabilized, and we had an unreal summit day.
"We ended up
with a superb views, best I've ever seen. Makalu of course is right there,
but even Kangch (Kangchenchunga) seemed close. It was so clear we could even
see Manaslu, and you don't usually see Manaslu. What a day for an Everest
summit. Many in our party spent an hour on top. And our descent back to Camp
IV was totally uneventful, and believe me, that's the way you want it."
[click here for the first of the summit-day dispatches]
"We were lucky," said guide Vern Tejas, who flew from Nepal immediately
after descending Everest and is now guiding on Denali. "Weather, health and
conditions all conspired to make this a very successful trip. It was a great
bunch of people."
Other notable successes this year included Pete Athans, who reached to top of Everest for the seventh time, the most summits of any
non-Sherpa climber. Athans was climbing with Peter Hillary, son of Sir Edmund
Hillary, who made the first ascent of the peak in 1953, and Brent Bishop,
the son of Barry
Bishop, who climbed Everest during the 1963 American expedition.
Athans,
Hillary and Bishop were climbing for a National Geographic
film commemorating the 50th
anniversary of the British first ascent of Everest by Hillary
and Tenzing Norgay in 1953, and the 40th anniversary of the first American
ascent of the mountain in 1963 (the year Jim Whittaker and Gombu repeated
the South Col route, followed Tom Hornbein's and Willi Unsoeld's historic
first
traverse of the peak when they climbed the West Ridge and descended the
South Col
route).
Brent Bishop, who first climbed Everest in 1995 with Scott Fischer,
had originally hoped to climb the West Ridge, but time and conditions made
that impossible. The party was on the summit at the same time the Alpine
Ascents team was there; Peter Hillary called his famous father from the
mountaintop he was the first to reach.
One significant event that largely escaped attention was the success of
Ellen Miller, 43, of Vail, Colorado, who became the first North American to
summit from both the north side (Tibet) and the south side (Nepal), back-to-back, when she reached the top via the South Col route on May 16. There are
only four women that
have reached the summit twice, and two of them are Sherpani.
"There were a few less teams than the last few seasons, but the route on the
mountain was pretty much on par with other years," said Bill Crouse, lead
guide on Miller's climb. "The season was a bit compressed, with only two
major summit windows. Even though we hit a record for people reaching the
summit from the Southeast Ridge in one day there was no drama. Everyone
climbed well
and patiently to get that tremendous view. The descent didn't have
crowds or delays, as the teams really didn't get concentrated at any point
on the route. A brilliant clear night of shooting stars, a peaceful sunrise
showing the curve of the earth with the first slivers of light, and warmth
through the day. One to be remembered for sure."
For Miller, it was her second summit within the year. "I wanted to summit
Everest from both Tibet and Nepal because I wanted to have a very clear
understanding of both routes on the mountain," Miller told MountainZone.com,
"because I'm writing a book about women climbing Everest. As far as reaching
the summit twice in one year (May 23, 2001 and May 16, 2002) I was simply
blessed with good weather, and superb expedition leadership."
Peter Potterfield, MountainZone.com Staff
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