Greg:
Are there other trips you are planning?
Mark:
I'm one of those people who have always got a game plan for the future. I plan stuff
out years in advance. I love the planning and research part of expeditioning. Finding
a photo in an old book of a beautiful mountain and deciding to find exactly where in
the world it is, then launching a trip to it is very rewarding. Some of my dreams are
far fetched. But they are all possible with planning. Another place I want to climb
in is the Latok region of Pakistan. Unfortunately, I have had to abandon that for the
time being because of the geographical location.
Greg:
Climbers are going to have to change their habits in some ways. Pakistan and the
Karakoram are the mother lode of great peaks for many of us, but perhaps they'll be
off limits now.
Mark: There are other places to go. South America, Alaska, and the Canadian
Rockies are all fine places. The good thing about climbing adventures is that you can
find them everywhere.
Career Highlights
* Baffin Island: "The Great and Secret Show," VII 5.11 A4 WI3, north face of
Polar Sun Spire (first ascent)
* Baffin Island: "Crossfire," VI 5.10 A4, south face of Great Cross Pillar (first
ascent)
* Baffin Island: "Nuvualik," VI 5.10+ A3+, west face of the Turret (first
ascent)
* Baffin Island: "Rum and the Lash," VI 5.10 A4+, northwest face of Sail Peak
(first ascent)
* Karakoram, Pakistan: "The Ship of Fools," VII 5.11 A2 WI6, northeast face of
Shipton Spire (first ascent)
* Karakoram, Pakistan: "Parallel Worlds," VII 5.11 A4, northwest face of Great
Trango Tower (first ascent of northwest face and west summit)
* Patagonia: "The Compressor Route," 5.10 A1, Cerro Torre
* Patagonia: "SCUD," 5.11, 7-pitch direct start to Exocet, Cerro Stanhardt
(attempt)
* Alaska: "Shaken Not Stirred," west face of Moose’s Tooth, Alaska Range
* Alaska: "The Dream in the Spirit of Mugs," 5.10c, west face of the Eye
Tooth
* Attempted first one-day ascent of Mt. Dickey’s southeast face; reached 4,000
feet in 11 hours.
* Cameroon: "The Great Technical Adventure," 5.12d, Rhumsiki Tower (first
ascent)
* Canadian Rockies: east face of Mt. Babel (5.11), east ridge of Temple, east
face of Edith Cavell
* Black Canyon of the Gunnison: "Stratosfear," VI 5.11+ R, Painted Wall
* Black Canyon of the Gunnison: "The Dragon Route," VI 5.10 A4 (first winter
ascent of Painted Wall)
* Black Canyon of the Gunnison: "Paint it Black," VI 5.11 A3+, North Chasm View
Wall (second ascent, winter)
* Black Canyon of the Gunnison: "Air Voyage," V 5.12a, North Chasm View Wall
* Black Canyon of the Gunnison: "Astro Dog," V 5.11+, South Chasm View Wall
* Black Canyon of the Gunnison: "Scenic Cruise," V 5.10+, North Chasm View
Wall
* Black Canyon of the Gunnison: "Goss-Logan," V 5.11 R, North Chasm View Wall
* Black Canyon of the Gunnison: "Southern Arete," V 5.10+, Painted Wall
Films/Videos/Print
* National Geographic magazine: Apr.-July 1998: climbing talent for documentary
on Baffin Island big-wall first ascent
* National Geographic Television: Apr.-July 1998: climber/videographer for
documentary on Baffin Island big-wall first ascent
* National Geographic Television: Aug. 1998: chief rigger/climbing talent for
documentary shot in Iceland
* National Geographic Television: Dec. 1999: climber/expedition leader for
documentary on freeclimbing in Cameroon
* National Geographic Television: July 2000: chief rigger for documentary shot in
British Columbia
* American Adventure Productions, June-Aug. 1999: climber/videographer/expedition
leader for documentary on climbing Great Trango Tower (aired on NBC television)
* Warren Miller films, June 2001: climber/skiing talent for climb and ski descent
from the northwest summit of Mt. Waddington, Coast Range, B.C.
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