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Mixed Mecca
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The Canadian Rockies
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Mixed Mecca:The Canadian Rockies
Sean Isaac pulling on to the ice on the first pitch of his new route Thriller at the Stanley Headwall (Pitch 1 - M9, Pitch 2 - M7+).
Photo: Jimmy Chin
Mixed climbing really caught on in 1991 with the now classic Mixed Master (IV 5.8 WI5, 300m) receiving the most attention. Located only 10 minutes from the highway, right beside the very popular Weeping Wall (IV WI4-6, 300m), veteran ice climbers could not believe that they never had seen this gem. It wasn't because the route wasn't there before, it was because they simply weren't looking for that sort of thing. Almost instantly, eyes opened and winter climbers were discovering the potential of using ice tools and crampons on rock; putting steel to stone. WI5 bashing became stale while thin ice and rock was fresh and new.

Armed with the mottoes "less is more" and "it doesn't have to be formed to be formed," Jeff Everett and Glen Reisenhofer offered a glance into the future with their 1991 first ascent of Suffer Machine (V 5.6 A2 WI5, 200m) on the Stanley Headwall. This massive waterfall had never formed completely, always ending as an unformed icicle hanging over a cave. That year it came tantalizingly close to the ground, so the duo humped an extension ladder up the two-hour approach, with the intention of using it to reach the ice. Of course, the ladder was too short, so they returned armed with a full aid rack and bolt kit and proceeded to climb the rock out the steep wall to the ice.


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